Of course you will have much more work with an organic mulch. It will have to be replaced at least once a year as it breaks down and nourishes the soil. Plastic will set on the soil for years and do nothing for the soil. It will most most likely damage it almost beyond repair. Hay, straw and leaves make fine organic mulches, old newspapers, brown grocery bags and waste paper make an great underlayment for organic mulch. They provide a barrier to prevent light from reaching weed seeds and stimulating germination. When you work the soil you bring weed seeds to the surface where the the light will stimulate them to germination. A layer of paper with a thick organic mulch on top will stop this from happening and significantly loose time spent pulling weeds. Thus freeing you for the more pleasurable aspects of gardening. Organic mulch can be laid in thick layers to mulch nearly anything. From a box hedge, expensive evergreen border, a perennial bed, or a row of rhododendrons. These are all garden spots that respond well to a paper mulch. If you use a permanent mulch on your vegetable garden, you’ll be pleasantly surprised at the absence of weeds. The paper can be covered with something attractive and organic. Such as hay, straw, compost, wooden chips, sawdust or anything else organic. You must cover the paper with something or the wind will scatter them all over the neighborhood.

The plastic industry has been with us for about 35 years now. During that time they have made it the good objective of their research to develop much more and much more indestructible material and more uses of this material. They’re great success, causes an ever growing burden on the sanitation department. This causes extra burden on the tax payers. You can garden just as well or much better without plastic. Even if that were not true. Organic gardeners that are truly worried with environmental contaminants must make up their minds to avoid using as much plastic as possible. It is one of the fastest-growing pollutants of all. A biodegradable plastic material has required the industry to spend a sizable portion of its income on serious research and development. The biodegradable plastics are heavily expensive for anyone to use.

The reports regarding plastic material have been very disturbing, for one thing plastic material is practically indestructible, unless you burn it. Which causes air pollution. It cannot be composted or digested. It is non degradable and incapable of being assimilated into the organic cycle. Our societies obsession with plastic has caused a blight on our land that time will not erase. We need to increase our efforts to improve plastic or decrease the use of it. How much nicer a reflection on our society it would be, if an archaeologist ten thousand years from now would insert a shovel into clean wealthy soil, breathe fresh air, drink pure water. Then name our present society for those characteristics, instead of the litter of plastic material that is fast over burdening us.

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No climber does more to lift the grey pall of February than Jasminum nudifforum. The yellow flowers on a north or west wall brave snow or arctic frost with equanimity Over a low wall, on a trellis, clipped as an ornament to the front lawn, few soils or situations reduce Winter Jasmine to despair. Each flowering shoot should be cut back in April to within 2 shoots of the base.

The White Jasmine, J. officinale, is more circumspect, preferring to flower in the somnolence of July, lingering on until September. The sweetly scented white flowers festooned the tool shed at home where the roots were buried in mortar rubble, but refuse utterly to survive on wet clay, to my eternal regret. Cuttings taken with a heel in August will root readily enough.

The common species, Hedera helix, has no equal as a self-clinging climber or for all-round adaptability. Fortunately, it shows no reluctance sport new varieties to such an extent that the choice is becoming bewildering in its diversity. Buttercup, as the name implies, is a good yellow form, which dare I whisper it, always has the same effect on me as flat lemonade. Congesta is slow growing with small grey-green leaves. It is a fine plant for a terraced corner or a large stone in the rock garden.

Polygonum baldschuanicum is a heaven-sent climber for those unfortunate gardeners with ugly buildings to cover, chain-link fences to hide, or air-raid shelters to disguise. My particular bete noir is a tarred shed.

Lonicera x americana is a vigorous climber which will spread 30 ft. The flowers appear earlier than those of the native woodbine in June to July, white at first, then yellow tinged with plum purple. L. henryi is another climber which needs room to spread and is almost worth the space for the beauty of the dark evergreen leaves. The red and yellow flowers are rather small and the blue-black berries soon disappear down some bird gourmet’s rapacious throat.

Pyracanthas make good wall shrubs. Clipped to a green buttress they take the square angularity from the modern concrete buildings which hold no pretence to architectural elegance.

The aim here is to produce a vine shaped like an open bush. The rods are allowed to grow naturally for the first year after planting. The rods are then cut back to within two buds of their base in January.

In the spring choose the stoutest and strongest growth and tie this perpendicularly to a stake. Cut out all other growths and concentrate on this one. Do not carry out any summer pruning, just let this strong rod develop naturally. Next January cut this rod back to within 3 buds of its base. When the 3 buds grow out, keep them, tying them to stakes or bamboos so as to form a goblet shape. Do not do any summer pruning.

The leaves of the vines grown against walls are often attacked by Red Spiders, and the answer here is to syringe the under surface of the foliage in the evening, twice a week, from the beginning of June onwards. In cases of bad attack some liquid derris should be added to the water.

Red Spiders can be detected by examining the back of the leaf with a magnifying glass. Red Spider is a bad name. Yellow Mite would be better.

Some people give each vine one stake, 4 feet out of the ground, and then, instead of tying the rods out to ‘form a goblet, they merely tie the tips of the rods to the top of the stakes to form an inverted cone. By the way, do not allow the young cane to go on growing after the requisite number of bunches of grapes have been produced. You should always pinch out the growing point at 3 leaves beyond the top hunch.

When growing a vine against a wall the pruning may be similar. The rod instead of being taken along a lower wire can be trained, with a main rod growing upwards and with side permanent rods trained out at right angles. Thus a series of horizontal cordons are formed and the laterals they produce are pruned back hard each January. These are tied to wires stretched tightly in between the main wires.

Cantaloupe, also called muskmelon (Cucumis melo reticulatus); casaba, Crenshaw, Persian and honeydew melons (C. melo inodorus); watermelon (Citrullus vulgaris). Though melons are thought of as fruits, they are treated like vegetables in the garden. They grow on vines that creep along the ground for 6 to 10 feet or more and are usually planted in clumps on mounds, or hills, of soil.

Melons can be grown successfully in regions where minimum night temperatures average no lower than 55 and minimum daytime temperatures are no lower than 80 throughout the growing seasons. The length of the growing seasons, from the time the seeds are sown until the plants are harvested, is listed for each recommended variety. Because long growing seasons are required for most casaba, Crenshaw, Persian and honeydew melons, all but a few of the varieties that are listed in these categories are generally grown only in the southwestern, south-central and southern parts of the U.S.

To prepare a hill for melons, dig a hole about 1 foot deep and 2 feet across; dig into the bottom of the hole a 4- to 6-inch layer of compost or well-rotted cow manure. Replace the topsoil until it forms a gentle mound about 4 inches high. Space hills for large watermelons about 10 feet apart, for all other melons 4 to 6 feet apart.

When the seedlings are 1 inch tall, cut off the weaker one in each pot. When night temperatures no longer fall below 50, set the plants, pots and all, into the garden, spacing them 18 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart. In frost-free regions, sow seeds directly in the garden when night temperatures are expected to stay above 50. Group three or four seeds in a spot, setting each group 1/2 inch deep and 18 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart.

Water the plants in dry weather. Because melons lie on the ground, a mulch of old hay or straw helps prevent rot. Also, melon roots are shallow and are easily damaged by cultivation; if a mulch is not used, hoe no deeper than 1 inch when weeding. Do not move the vines; they too are easily injured.

The pods develop very rapidly and should be picked daily within a few days after the flower petals have fallen, whether the pods are to be used or not. If pods are allowed to ripen, the plants cease to produce.