Debranching Dahlia
For the same reason it is best to leave this de-branching until the side shoots have reached a reasonable length, say some 4 to 6 in. long, before attempting to remove surplus growth. At this stage it will be fairly obvious which shoots are suitable for retention and which are not. The surplus growth should be removed with a very sharp knife, cutting through the growth as closely as possible to the junction with the main stem. In addition, though not completely essential, it is as well to dust a little flowers of sulphur or hydrated lime on the cuts to prevent any possibility of infection entering the open wound.
Some of the branches are secured direct to these additional canes, whilst the rest are retained by making a tie right round the outside of the canes. In the case of the giant cactus and clecoratives provide a supporting cane for every stem.
This is however a rather expensive method if a large number of plants are grown, and some growers simply wire the rows of stakes together with stout galvanised wire, stayed at each end to keep the rows taut. Some branches are looped back to the main stake, others are looped to the wire, and an odd cane or two provided for those branches which would be damaged if forced back in this fashion. It is important in any case to ensure that no branch is forced too far out of position as it is likely that this will cause it to be unseated from its socket.
The main thing to remember is that there is an immense variation in the time taken by individual varieties to produce blooms, and that it is best to find out before stopping time, when growing a new variety, whether it is naturally early or late blooming, and to stop accordingly, basing the calculation on the assumption that the majority of varieties will bloom approximately io to 12 weeks from the date of stopping. This is a very approximate guide, but it will give a sound basis to work upon until an accurate knowledge is built up from the variations from the normal displayed by different varieties. Exact timing will never be achieved but it will be possible to ensure that blooms of a particular variety will be available over a period covering the specified date.
Although this may seem a great deal of trouble, it is better to take such precautions than to have the heartbreaking sight of a strong healthy branch broken off later in the season, particularly on a plant well thinned out for giant blooms of exhibition quality. For the same reason it is essential to tie in the branches as these develop, and this is a task that must never be neglected.
If several canes are used it is simple; all that is needed is a circle of string round plants and canes to hold all in place. If only one stake is provided the developing growth should be carefully looped back to this, striving to provide support but at the same time keeping the plant open to allow the free circulation of air through the foliage and also to prevent bunching of flowers when these appear. Overcrowding can only lead to bruised and malformed florets. If the stakes have been wired together some of the branches could he secured to the supporting wires. Where a cane has been provided for each branch all that is needed is a simple loop of string round branch and stake at regular intervals.
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March 05 2009 | Gardening | No Comments »