by Abraham Kiyoski
The aim here is to produce a vine shaped like an open bush. The rods are allowed to grow naturally for the first year after planting. The rods are then cut back to within two buds of their base in January.
In the spring choose the stoutest and strongest growth and tie this perpendicularly to a stake. Cut out all other growths and concentrate on this one. Do not carry out any summer pruning, just let this strong rod develop naturally. Next January cut this rod back to within 3 buds of its base. When the 3 buds grow out, keep them, tying them to stakes or bamboos so as to form a goblet shape. Do not do any summer pruning.
The leaves of the vines grown against walls are often attacked by Red Spiders, and the answer here is to syringe the under surface of the foliage in the evening, twice a week, from the beginning of June onwards. In cases of bad attack some liquid derris should be added to the water.
Red Spiders can be detected by examining the back of the leaf with a magnifying glass. Red Spider is a bad name. Yellow Mite would be better.
Some people give each vine one stake, 4 feet out of the ground, and then, instead of tying the rods out to ‘form a goblet, they merely tie the tips of the rods to the top of the stakes to form an inverted cone. By the way, do not allow the young cane to go on growing after the requisite number of bunches of grapes have been produced. You should always pinch out the growing point at 3 leaves beyond the top hunch.
When growing a vine against a wall the pruning may be similar. The rod instead of being taken along a lower wire can be trained, with a main rod growing upwards and with side permanent rods trained out at right angles. Thus a series of horizontal cordons are formed and the laterals they produce are pruned back hard each January. These are tied to wires stretched tightly in between the main wires.
About the Author:
In many areas, grape
fruit are being grown under glass in the
garden.
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February 28 2009 | Gardening | No Comments »
by Peter Nanette
Cantaloupe, also called muskmelon (Cucumis melo reticulatus); casaba, Crenshaw, Persian and honeydew melons (C. melo inodorus); watermelon (Citrullus vulgaris). Though melons are thought of as fruits, they are treated like vegetables in the garden. They grow on vines that creep along the ground for 6 to 10 feet or more and are usually planted in clumps on mounds, or hills, of soil.
Melons can be grown successfully in regions where minimum night temperatures average no lower than 55 and minimum daytime temperatures are no lower than 80 throughout the growing seasons. The length of the growing seasons, from the time the seeds are sown until the plants are harvested, is listed for each recommended variety. Because long growing seasons are required for most casaba, Crenshaw, Persian and honeydew melons, all but a few of the varieties that are listed in these categories are generally grown only in the southwestern, south-central and southern parts of the U.S.
To prepare a hill for melons, dig a hole about 1 foot deep and 2 feet across; dig into the bottom of the hole a 4- to 6-inch layer of compost or well-rotted cow manure. Replace the topsoil until it forms a gentle mound about 4 inches high. Space hills for large watermelons about 10 feet apart, for all other melons 4 to 6 feet apart.
When the seedlings are 1 inch tall, cut off the weaker one in each pot. When night temperatures no longer fall below 50, set the plants, pots and all, into the garden, spacing them 18 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart. In frost-free regions, sow seeds directly in the garden when night temperatures are expected to stay above 50. Group three or four seeds in a spot, setting each group 1/2 inch deep and 18 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart.
Water the plants in dry weather. Because melons lie on the ground, a mulch of old hay or straw helps prevent rot. Also, melon roots are shallow and are easily damaged by cultivation; if a mulch is not used, hoe no deeper than 1 inch when weeding. Do not move the vines; they too are easily injured.
The pods develop very rapidly and should be picked daily within a few days after the flower petals have fallen, whether the pods are to be used or not. If pods are allowed to ripen, the plants cease to produce.
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One
gardening tips is to water the vegetables in your
vegetable garden deeply and thoroughly whenever it show signs of wilting during the midday heat.
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February 20 2009 | Gardening | No Comments »