by Thomas Fryd
Blow Wind Blow and go garden go! Wind always creates problems in the garden but in March in the South the problem becomes acute. All gardeners know of the damage that results from plants whipping back and forth, being bruised or crushed against each other, the cutting action of the fine soil, and the silting action of the blowing dust. All these are bad. enough, but the real damage comes from the drying action of the winds the dehydration of plant tissues.
In this area there has been more, moisture during the last year than for, any previous season. For this reason many gardeners will neglect to supply needed moisture to the top soil, the layer in which feeder roots of plants are present. Many gardeners rely on winter mulches to prevent excessive drying of the top soil, and rightly so! But in at least half of our area even the mulch material is blown away, therefore surface watering becomes absolutely necessary.
The easiest method to water the garden at any time is by a permanent sprinkler system. More and more of these are being installed each year by gardeners.
Two thorough soakings given the garden during March at two week intervals should prevent dehydration damage. Root activity has already begun in the soil since the soil temperatures have reached 62 and stabilized, so water is vitally important now. Unless moisture is available when the plant needs it for proper development, the quantity and quality of the plant will suffer.
Summer flowering bulbs or tubers such as dahlias, cannas, caladiums, and tuberoses should be started now. These bulbs are usually stored during the winter through our area although in some parts they may have been left in the ground. If so, these should be lifted, divided and replanted now. In the case of the dahlia make sure that each tuber has a section of the old stem attached.
Unless this is present there cannot be any growth. For cannas and greenhouse bulbs, take them out of storage and cut the tubers into four-eye divisions. For early flowers from these, A pre-grow them in flats of sand to establish the growing points. When one leaf has reached six inches in length, plant the cannas outside the greenhouse in the permanent location. Many gardeners plant cannas just for the foliage. It is excellent for arrangements. Fancy-leaf caladiums may be sprouted by placing the growing point downward in a flat of wet moss for ten days.
After sprouting they may be potted in containers and replanted outside after they have become established. For sheer summer beauty try a planting of all white caladiums in front of Burford holly. This combination really looks cool on hot summer days. The crinums are a fascinating group of summer bulbs that should be given more place in our garden.
About the Author:
Find out more as Thomas Fryd shares his experiences on lawn, garden landscaping, vines and house plants. at http://www.plant-care.com. Seeking assistance on
greenhouse bulbs.
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April 21 2009 | Landscaping | No Comments »
by Kory Smith
At this time of year people start to contemplate whether to buy a greenhouse or not. Since owning a greenhouse requires both money and time, its a good thing to ask a few questions before you decide one way or another and taking the cheap way out is not always the best way.
The first question is; does size matter? When it comes to buying a green house the answer is yes. The size you buy will depend on several factors including the space you have available for a greenhouse; what you intend on growing in your greenhouse and whether you are using the greenhouse as a season extender or year-round grow house.
Sometimes the space you have available is not necessarily a great space for a greenhouse. If your greenhouse will sit under the shade all day then you will not get the sunlight you need for optimum growing time. If the green house has a combination of sun and shade it can be a good greenhouse but not always a great greenhouse. In most climates you will want a space that has sunlight most, if not all day long.
If you are looking to use a greenhouse as a season extender, just about any kind and size will do. Of course this will depend on how many plants you are either starting on the front end on extending on the back end. Since you will not be growing plants in the dead of winter, or the heat of summer, your heating and cooling requirements will be at a minimum.
If you are over-wintering plants in a greenhouse you will need one that has decent insulation properties since you will need to keep the temperature about 30 F above the outside temperature for the extended time. If you are in a mild climate, you can get away with one of the inexpensive greenhouses like the Rion Silverline or Greenline Greenhouse.
This changes as you move north into the colder climates. Once you get into regions that reach 0 F, you will need a very good insulated greenhouse to hold in the heat. If you decide to forgo this recommendation and purchase a cheaper greenhouse, you will be paying for it later in very high heating bills. It makes more since to buy the right unit up front and get the right greenhouse for your area. You will be much happier in the long run.
If you are looking to grow food in your greenhouse then you will need a very tightly sealed and very well insulated greenhouse. You will be highly disappointed (especially in the northern regions) with anything else in a greenhouse and will be paying large heating bills if you dont have a greenhouse that is well insulated and retains heat from your heat source. The Conservatory Series by Solexx and the Rion Green Giant Greenhouses are worth looking at for this purpose.
The bottom line is greenhouses are designed for several functions and only you can determine for which function or functions you most want a green house for. Experience shows us that the biggest mistakes people make are not getting a well enough insulated greenhouse for their climate or they get a greenhouse that is ultimately too small for what they want to accomplish. Learn by others mistakes and dont make the same ones.
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February 09 2009 | Gardening | No Comments »