This principle is less ephemeral than unity and more easily defined, and can even be set down in nearly precise mathematical terms. Essentially, the elements or areas of a design have a visual weight; and these weights achieve balance like that of the old-fashioned scale, or seesaw. If the seesaw is unbalanced, the result is distracting or disturbing. The principle of balance is usually mandatory, but the methods of achieving it are not. There are many ways to arrange elements and areas to achieve a balanced design; and here is where originality and personal taste improve the picture.
Two types of balanced composition are generally recognized – formal and informal. Formal balance calls for a focal point or center of interest in the center of the design, with areas and/or elements of equal weight on either side. You can’t go wrong with formal balance. There is no question that the geometric arrangement of classic rose gardens are of good design; or even that Colonial or Victorian settings seem suitable for formally balanced decoration.
In informal balance the focal point is off-center–above, below, to one side of the exact center; and it often achieves a lively, interesting effect. To break a broad expanse of garden wall, a vine is planted at one side of its center; or a pillar rose used as an accent is placed similarly off-center – in either case, the larger, unbroken or unaccented areas are large enough and have sufficient weight to balance the object of interest or accent.
Rhythm
Vitality and “dynamic line of force” are somewhat synonymous terms for rhythm. It is a basic principle that creates interest because it gives the effect of motion rather than of static immobility, variety rather than dull monotony. Using lines to create fluid effects contributes to rhythmic quality. For example, a combination of horizontal and vertical lines is more active, more mobile, than a set of running parallels, either horizontal or vertical. Hanging a vine down over the edge of a table, or letting it climb a wall behind a bookcase, at right angles to the horizontal line of the furniture like the hepa air filters, is more effective than training it in a parallel direction.
Using a variety of colors and tones, textures, and structural forms also helps create rhythm. So does allowing one element to overlap the next.
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November 25 2009 | Landscaping | No Comments »
November brings with it shorter days for work and longer nights for rest and sleep. Blustery winds are snatching the last of the gaily colored leaves from drowsy trees; slanting rains put a stop to the merriment of dancing leaves and flatten them into a charming mosaic carpet; cold strengthens his grip on fainting summer.
To keep the plumber from reaching deep down in your pocket, better shut off and drain all irrigating systems and other exposed water lines, if the job has not already been taken care of. In the basement, turn off the water to the outside foundation faucets. Open the faucets outside to permit proper drainage.
Rose Chores
This is the proper time to prepare roses to withstand the rigors of winter. The best agent to protect the stems of the hybrid teas from drying out and to prevent rapid alternate freezing and thawing has been found to be the earth itself. The plants should be practically buried to a depth of six to eight inches by using the soil in the bed around the plants or by the addition of other soil brought in. If the plants have been spaced too closely to permit mounding without exposure of roots, some loose, mellow soil should be added. Frequently, additional soil can be borrowed from a nearby shrub bed.
Tie the tops of the individual plants together with strips of cloth before beginning the mounding operations. This allows more room for working among the rose plants and will prevent the tops from becoming unruly when buffeted by winter winds.
After the rose bushes have been mounded, a 12- to 15-inch mulch of hay or straw should be applied over the bed. This double protection keeps the soil warmer in the fall until really severe weather arrives. The mulch also aids in preventing the soil from warming up too soon in the spring. New growth thus held back frequently escapes the late freeze injury occurring to unmulched plants. Some local gardeners have successfully wintered their roses by mulching them with an eight- to ten-inch layer of wood shavings (about one bushel per plant). The shavings are removed in the spring and broadcast on the shrubbery beds.
Standard or tree roses should be bent over and covered with soil. If the stems are too stiff to be bent over without danger of breaking, dig up the roses carefully, lay them on the ground and cover completely with several inches of good, loose soil. Dig up the plants and reset them next spring.
The roses should not be pruned this time of year but any unusually long canes should be cut back to the average height.
Young climbing roses may be removed from trellises, pegged to the ground and covered with soil, leaves, hay or straw. Older plants with stiff, entwining canes may be wrapped in straw held in place with burlap. It is difficult to get an overcoat that will fit the strong growing roses on fences or walls, consequently we simply wish them the best of luck during the winter season. But unlike growing roses, we can still care for dracaena fragrans massangeana indoors.
Roses may be set out during this month, provided good, strong dormant plants can be obtained. Few roses are available here in the fall, since they arc brought in from growers on the West Coast or in Texas and do not arrive until early spring. Roses planted now should be watered thoroughly, pruned back to about 12 inches, mounded with soil eight to ten inches high, and mulched with hay or straw.
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November 22 2009 | Gardening | No Comments »